Learn the craft

Guides

One article per process route — why the process exists and how each stage works — and one per machine: what it changes in the fabric, and why it is needed.

Process routes

One article per process route: why the process exists, how each stage works and what goes in, how parameters are set — read alongside the route map in Solutions.

Tops Mill

Shrink-resist and lustre treatment of wool tops

Ecru tops take this line before dyeing: chlorination descaling → resin coverage → multi-stage chemical finishing → through-flow drying, in one pass — the result is machine-washable Superwash top.

Top-dyed recombing

From ecru top to dyed top on one map: loading → dyeing → hydro-extraction → backwashing line → recombing, plus the short route and the printing branch.

Worsted Mill

Worsted finishing, piece-dyed route

Woven greige is dyed in the piece: inspection and mending → wet finishing → Kroy pre-treatment (optional) → piece dyeing → dry finishing.

Worsted finishing, top-dyed route

Tops are dyed before spinning and weaving, so the finishing chain carries no dyeing step: top-dyed recombing → weaving (with yarn steaming) → wet and dry finishing.

Woollen Mill

Woollen finishing, piece-dyed route

Woven greige is dyed in the piece: burling and mending → wet finishing (piece dyeing inside) → dry finishing.

Woollen finishing, stock-dyed route

Loose stock is dyed before spinning and weaving: stock dyeing → weaving (with yarn steaming) → wet and dry finishing, with no dyeing step in the finishing chain.

Wool & Blend Knits

Wool and blend knitted fabric route

Tubular greige → scouring and milling → (piece dyeing of white greige) → slitting → crabbing → dry finishing. Belt-type steaming-shrinking; no weft straightening.

Machine by machine

One article per machine: what it changes in the fabric — handle, dimensional stability, lustre, cleanliness — and why it is needed.

Tops processing

Fibre Filter Unit (WPF-JC)

Wool tops fibre filtration: collects the fibre dust and fly from tops handling, keeping the machines and the shop clean

Outline

Wool Tops Shrinkproofing Line (WPF-MTFSSG)

Continuous chlorine descaling and resin coating turn wool tops machine-washable, with a cashmere- and silk-like lustre and handle

Read the principle

Wool Tops Backwashing Line (WPF-MTFX)

Washes loose dye and auxiliaries out of dyed tops and dries them to an even moisture level, setting the yarn-quality baseline for spinning.

Read the principle

Wool Tops Vigoureux Printing Machine (WPF-MTYH)

Local colour on tops creates a colour-and-white mixture for recombing; printing is followed by steam fixation, second backwashing and drying.

Read the principle

Fabric Seaming Machine (WPF-PF)

Piece-to-Piece Seaming

Outline

Yarn steaming

Vacuum Yarn Steaming Autoclave (WPF-ZS)

Vacuum-steam twist-setting that leaves yarn free of water marks, covering both yarn steaming and post-print tops fixation in one autoclave

Read the principle

Wet finishing

Wool Milling Machine (WPF-1S)

Rope milling with airflow for fewer creases

Read the principle

Four-Channel Wool Scouring and Milling Machine (WPF-4XS)

Scouring and milling in one machine, with four independently set channels so different colours and weights run together without queuing for a shared recipe.

Read the principle

Teasel Raising Machine (WPF-CG)

Wet teasel raising follows wet brushing, using adjustable contact, cylinder speed and traverse to develop the pile and selected ripple effects.

Read the principle

Discontinuous Open Width Washing Machine (WPF-JXPX)

Keeps the fabric open-width instead of roped, so it comes out free of rope-scouring creases, evenly treated, and clean of spinning oil, size and soap liquor.

Read the principle

Continuous Crabbing and Drying Line (WPF-LXZH)

Crabbing sets dimensional stability; tiered cylinder drying removes the glazed face and harsh handle that contact drying can leave on wool fabric.

Read the principle

Wet Brushing and Setting Machine (WPF-SSMDX)

Wet brushing aligns both fabric faces after crabbing, before teasel raising, squeezing and drying, with each brushing roller set independently.

Read the principle

Rope Scouring Machine (WPF-XN)

Rope scouring removes oil and residue through repeated spraying and squeezing, for clean-face fabrics or washing after milling.

Read the principle

Crabbing Machine (WPF-ZN)

The WPF-ZN sets an entire piece of wool fabric in one hot-liquor bath — one heat history end to end, a flat face, lasting lustre, a soft resilient hand.

Read the principle

Dry finishing

Discontinuous Decatizing Machine (WPF-JXZN-MAX)

Wrapped-batch steam penetration and cooling provide decatizing after pre-shrinking, with the treatment selected for the fabric.

Read the principle

Pin-Chain Steaming-Shrinking Machine (WPF-LTYS)

Steam releases residual shrinkage while pin chains control width, with straightening before pre-shrinking and decatizing afterwards.

Read the principle

Continuous Pressure Decatizing Machine (WPF-LXZN-P)

Pressurised steam sets the fabric in a single pass, giving dimensional stability and lasting lustre close to kier-decatizing depth.

Read the principle

Continuous Decatizing Machine (WPF-LXZN)

Continuously sets fabric handle and lustre after pressing — covers fringed scarves and shawls that batch machines struggle to load

Read the principle

Vertical Brushing Machine (WPF-SM)

Dry-finishing brushing removes loose fibre and aligns the pile before pre-shrinking and decatizing; a steam box is optional.

Read the principle

Fabric Polishing Machine (WPF-TG)

Combs long woollen pile straight and heat-presses it into directional lustre — the effect needs decatizing afterwards to become permanent.

Read the principle

Belt-Type Steaming-Shrinking Machine (WPF-WDYS)

Belt support, overfeed and vibration release shrinkage in both directions; woven routes straighten next, while the knit route proceeds to decatizing.

Read the principle

Weft Straightener (WPF-ZW)

Pin wheels grip the edges and tension fabric transversely to straighten the weft, before pin-chain or after belt pre-shrinking.

Read the principle

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Andy Wei · Project Director

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